Adventure in the East Kimberley: Your definitive guide to Kununurra and beyond

Picture this: you’re flying over flat, arid plains when a rocky formation abruptly rears upwards, morphing into an otherworldly landscape. You see hundreds of domes in rusted orange, with prehistoric palms sprouting from impossible crevices. Or imagine you’re floating below a misting waterfall at the end of a boulder-strewn gorge, or absorbing the rhythm of the didgeridoo as the sun’s last rays slip below this ancient land. If you see yourself in any of these scenes, it’s already too late – you’ve succumbed to the powerful pull of the East Kimberley, and there’s nothing else for it but to book your trip.

From experience, I know just how easily this majestic land can get under your skin; how no amount of time exploring its wilderness will ever feel like enough. This piece is my attempt at rectifying this dilemma: my go-to list of travel must-dos should allow you to squeeze as many unforgettable moments out of your time here as you can. Let’s get your East Kimberley adventure started.

Start in Kununurra, the Gateway to the East Kimberley

Wondering how to get to the Kimberley? Unless you have time for a monumental road trip, begin your East Kimberley adventure by flying to Kununurra via Perth, Broome or Darwin. The gateway town is home to about 7000 residents, but in the peak dry season (April to October) Kununurra pulses with caravanning grey nomads and adventurous travellers getting their dose of real outback. Untouched and wild, this isn’t the kind of place to arrive and wing it: it’s best to pre-book car hire, guided tours and your Kununurra accommodation well before you get here so you can experience all of the spectacular sights and sounds before another traveller takes your place.

The town of Kununurra was built in the early 1960s as a construction camp for the Ord River Scheme, which saw the creation of Lake Kununurra (just beside town) and upstream, Lake Argyle. Before that time the Aboriginal Miriwoong and Gajerrong people lived in the area mostly by themselves, apart from pastoralists and the odd traveller.

Today, Kununurra gives off tropical vibes with a distinctive Kimberley flavour. The bulbous shapes of boab trees line the lakefront, scarlet finches flitting between them. In the lake itself, one million barramundi have been released, and boat-loads of mates cruise around, hoping to snag one. And always: four-wheel drive tour buses roll into town and dusty trucks laden with tropical fruit, roll out.

Aerial view of Lake Argyle

Connect to Aboriginal Culture in the East Kimberley

Aboriginal culture runs deep across the Kimberley. To get a deeper understanding of the region, meeting with some of the traditional custodians of this land is a great starting point. A visit to the Indigenous-owned Waringarri Aboriginal Arts Centre feels like a must. Here, dreamtime stories inspire modern paintings, sculptures, and even boab engravings. For deeper insights still, join the guided cultural sunset arts tour that I took, following your guide through nearby Mirima National Park, between ancient rock formations aptly named the ‘mini-bungles’.

During my visit, I was lucky enough to be guided by local legend Ted Carlton. As the wallabies appeared and the land glowed golden in the late afternoon, Ted indulged us with stories of the dreamtime and his younger life on Kimberley cattle stations. At a nearby lookout, we kicked back with damper and tea around a campfire, as Ted whipped out his didgeridoo, the perfect soundtrack for a Kimberley sunset.

Experience this guided tour for yourself – book our East Kimberley 6-day adventure package here.

Ted Carlton at Mirima National Park

Take to Water: Lake Kununurra and an Ord River Boat Tour

Kununurra town owes its existence to the construction of Lake Kununurra and, 55km upstream, Lake Argyle, so it’s only fair that you take to water while you’re here. Out of all the activities I’ve ticked off in the East Kimberley, the Ord River Discoverer Cruise has to be one of the best things to do in Kununurra. The tour starts with a bus ride and snippets of history at the home built by the pioneering cattle family, the Duracks. Luckily, the homestead was relocated decades ago – it would be tricky to visit at the bottom of Lake Argyle.

The boat journey starts below the wall and shimmys through the buckled Carr Boyd Range, staring up at massive cliffs. In quiet side tributaries, the tree canopy links overhead, and red-tailed cockatoos squawk. If you’re like me, prepare to endure some light anxiety, watching the adorable rock wallabies hurrying along precarious cliff faces. Smell the colonies of fruit bats and spot a freshwater crocodile or two, basking in Kimberley sunshine. Before docking in Kununurra, you’ll witness lakeside views of that glorious Kimberley sunset, too. This is a day trip you’ll never forget.

Book your 6-day East Kimberley adventure package or the 5-day Kununurra Marvels adventure to experience the Ord River Discoverer Cruise.

The Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park

Witness the Majesty of the Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park

Ready to be awe-inspired? The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Bungle Bungle Range will undoubtedly fit the bill. While the Aboriginal Gidga and Jaru people, along with local pastoralists, knew about these surreal beehive-shaped domes, the wider world had no idea they existed until 1982, when a documentary crew hopped in a small plane and came back utterly astonished. Photography or videos of these mysterious domes – beautiful as they are – still can’t quite prepare you for its real-life majesty. An utter highlight of the region, soaring over the Bungle Bungle Range offers goosebump-inducing, unbelievable sights, and will surely make it into the top 10 travel experiences of your lifetime.

If you have time, I’d recommend touching down and exploring this otherworldly place by foot. From the ground, you’ll spot brilliant wildflowers and iridescent rainbow bee-eaters catching tasty bugs. Your guide may point out termite mounds, clinging like pimples high on the face of the domes. And when you arrive at the immense circular cavern of Cathedral Gorge, stop and take a moment: a natural amphitheatre, the brave singers among you might just want to try out the acoustics.

At the opposite end of Purnululu National Park, equally impressive mountains of conglomerate rock have eroded to form skinny Echidna Chasm. Channelling Indiana Jones, negotiate the pebbly path – barely a metre wide – between the sheer walls, which soar to almost 200 metres high. As the sun passes overhead, watch the walls light up with vibrant orange.

Spending the night in Purnululu’s campsites or wilderness lodges makes for a magical end to your day. Dine under bright, starry skies, and wake up to the sounds of raucous cockatoos or the squeaky-toy chatter of double-barred finches.

Explore Purnululu National Park with our 6-day East Kimberley adventure package, which includes a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungle Range, glamping and visits to Echidna Chasm and Cathedral Gorge.

Echidna Chasm, the Bungle Bungle Range, Purnululu National Park

Explore El Questro

El Questro’s 700,000 acres are home to some of the Kimberley’s most dramatic landscapes. Once a working cattle station, El Questro has swapped most of its stock for tourists, and at just over an hour from Kununurra, it’s one of the East Kimberley’s most popular destinations, known for its incredible outdoor activities and beautiful, unique stays.

Some choose to visit on a day trip from Kununurra, but staying at one of El Questro’s three accommodation hubs is even better. The luxury option is the exclusive Homestead, which actually cantilevers over the Chamberlain River. At Emma Gorge Resort, glamping tents are dotted just beside the creek line. The Station is the main accommodation village, with cabins, onsite tents, campsites and dining options, and El Questro rangers conduct guided tours from here.

Among the most popular activities is the hour-long hike up Emma Gorge through the rugged Cockburn Range. Take it from me: the heavenly scene is worth the effort. At the end of the gorge, a fern-covered cliff rises 65 metres, complete with a trickling waterfall. I floated in this bliss for hours, watching tiny droplets drift over the misting waterfall. And hot tip: if you find it too chilly, head over to the right-hand side of the pool where hot thermal water flows into the pool like a bath.

You’ll also love Zebedee Springs, an oasis where weary travellers soak in deliciously clear, mineral-rich water under the shade of lush Livistona palms. Independent travellers can visit the Springs in the mornings, but if you’re envisaging more of a ‘secret paradise’ vibe, I’d visit on a guided tour. That way, your smaller group will have exclusive use of the Springs for a set time.

Explore El Questro and have a dip in Emma Gorge and Zebedee Springs by booking the 6-day East Kimberley adventure package or the 5-day Kununurra Marvels outback package.

Eating and Drinking in the East Kimberley

Despite its expanse, good food joints in the East Kimberley aren’t hard to come by, and some even rival those found in WA’s capital both in quality and cool-factor. The go-to place for food and drink in these parts is the Hoochery Distillery – WA’s oldest legally operating distillery, just 16km outside Kununurra. Strolling through its saloon-style swinging doors feels like heading right back to the Wild West. Join their tour, and you’ll discover their tongue-in-cheek ‘inefficient and very expensive’ techniques used to make their spiced rum, whisky and tropical gin. Outside in the laid-back beer garden, try the ‘barra’ tacos and Ord River rum cake – you won’t be disappointed.

The Hoochery Distillery Café, Kununurra

For dining at El Questro, the Station Resort has a couple of casual venues to choose from. The Steakhouse offers crispy-skinned barramundi or slabs of beef in the open-air restaurant overlooking a gurgling creek with its resident kookaburras. Head to the Swinging Arm Bar for pub grub and live music, or the Cantina for family dining. In Kununurra, start the day right with healthy breakfasts, good coffee and marvellous mango smoothies at the eclectic Wild Mango Café. For dinner, the Kimberley Grande Resort’s Sports Bar and Bistro has specials like Parmi and Laksa nights.

Unique wildlife, ancient geology, spectacular landscapes, wilderness adventures, deep relaxation and a window into Aboriginal culture; Australia’s last frontier has so much to offer. Raw and wild, the East Kimberley is one of just a few places that remains truly unspoiled, and even better than the pictures. It’s a place unlike anywhere else on this earth – and it’s just waiting to be explored.

Book your East Kimberley adventure now.